วันศุกร์ที่ 3 กุมภาพันธ์ พ.ศ. 2555

Creating Polaroid Transfers

Many people have told me that the first time they saw transfer image and emulsion transfers; they were completely enchanted and wanted to find out how these processes are done. About half of my workshop participants have never been complex in photography or any other art form but want to generate transfers. They bring old family slides and voyage pictures, or borrow images to use. Because the processes are relatively easy, these people often leave my workshops with master­pieces after just one afternoon of hands-on experience.

The other workshop participants are professionals who have been work­ing in photography or as artists in assorted media for many years, and who want to study additional techniques. So in response to the needs of begin­ners, intermediates, and professionals, I've poured approximately all I know about transfer image and emulsion transfers into this book. No matter what level you are at, you, too, can, in diminutive more than an after­noon of application, have the pleasure of making your own masterpieces.

Polaroid Printer

Creating a Transfer

Basically, to generate an image or emulsion transfer, you expose an image on­to extended range peel-apart film via one of three methods: using a camera with a film holder to expose an image directly onto film; using an enlarger to scheme a slide, trans­parency, or negative onto film; using a slide printer to transfer 35mm slides or negatives onto film. Whichever formula you choose, the key ingredient is the film holder. These print films have three main parts: a light-sensitive negative containing dyes, a unavoidable that receives the image from the negative, and a foil pod con­taining sufficient developing reagent to fabricate one picture. As you pull the film straight through the steel rollers in the film holder, the pod is broken, and the developer spreads evenly over the film. The dyes then migrate from the negative to the unavoidable (see the drawing below).

To generate a image transfer, instead of letting the film fabricate fully onto the unavoidable print for the usual 6o to 90 seconds, you pull apart the film early, after io to 15 seconds. Next, you place the negative face down on an additional one surface, such as dampened water­color paper, and press it with a roller. The dyes from the negative contin­ue developing and in the process are "transferred" onto the chosen recep­tor surface. After i to 2. Minutes, you gently peel the negative off the receptor surface. Discard the negative. (Because diminutive dye is left in the negative, you can't it for an additional one transfer-unless only a faint ghost image is desired.) You can then manipulate the resulting image on its new exterior by scraping and rubbing the still-wet dyes of the emulsion before it dries. And after the transfer dries, you can additional apply your creative touch by hand coloring the transferred image. Emulsion transfers have been called the next step in the cre­ative process of transferred and manipulated images. Emulsion transfers are much bolder and more colorful and dynamic than the subtle image transfers. Although you work with the same tool and film for emulsion transfers as for image transfers, the results are completely differ­ent. Instead of using the negative, you use the unavoidable part of the peel-apart film. During this process, the image is exposed, and the print is fully developed for 6o to 90 seconds. Next, remove the transparent emulsion layer by soaking the developed print in hot water. Once the emulsion is loose, in cold water cut off it from its backing. At this point, you can transfer the thin emulsion sculpt, stretch, wrinkle, and tear it into distinct shapes; and hand color it if you want to.

One of the best parts about both the image- and emulsion-transfer processes is that you don't need a great deal of expensive photographic tool and supplies, or a darkroom. You also don't need a photogra­phy background since the technical basics are quite simple. Beginning with good images (35mm slides are the best to begin with for slide printers) does help, but a variety of subjects and images will work beautifully.

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